Pruning Fruit Trees

Pruning an fruit tree - Cutting Branches at spring By Adam Radosavljevic

Even though it is still January, pruning season is upon us. On Saturday, February 7, UCCE Master Gardeners of Tuolumne County will demonstrate fruit tree pruning at their demonstration garden located on the campus of Cassina High School at 251 South Baretta Street in Sonora. Master Gardeners will be on hand starting at 10 am to answer your questions. Bring containers (or a truck) to take home free compost. And bring a soil sample for a free pH test.

In advance of the fruit tree pruning demonstration, here is a brief reminder of the principles of fruit tree pruning. Proper pruning shapes the tree to allow good sun exposure. This encourages optimal photosynthesis. Sunlight actually strengthens fruiting wood; shading inhibits growth. Never prune on a wet day as fungal disease spores are spread by water.

Observe the tree’s natural growth habit. What will its form be when it matures? Start slowly; always have a good reason before making any cut. The “open center” and “central leader” systems are two pruning methods the gardener can choose.

“Open center” is designed to produce a smaller tree. Fruit can be harvested without a ladder and pruning is done from the ground. Three to four strong scaffold (or main structural) branches are chosen, evenly distributed around the trunk. Total height is below 6 feet, creating a more open tree. This increases fruit quality by allowing greater light penetration and air circulation, which discourages disease and insects.

“Central leader” produces a taller tree, allowing a larger harvest and more shade. A central branch becomes dominant, and the lower scaffolding branches are chosen to grow evenly below and around the leader.

You may be asking which branches to cut first. The easiest way to see the tree’s framework is in the winter without the leaves (cherries and apricots should not be pruned in winter; they are susceptible to fungal diseases). First cut branches that are broken, dead or diseased. Branches growing straight down, straight up or directly into another branch can also be removed.

If there are suckers around the bottom of the trunk, remove them. Remove small branches before larger branches are selected. Next, choose the structure or scaffolding branches, usually 3 or 4, to be evenly distributed around the trunk. Pruning during the first 4-5 years establishes framework and is called training.

Cuts made at the main trunk are called thinning. The branch should be removed just above the wrinkled “shoulder” where it attaches, making the smallest cut possible. Wounds left after the cut should not be covered with ointment or paint. Natural drying seals the tree from infection.

Cuts, made at a lateral outward-facing bud, are called heading back, and encourage growth in a specific direction. It is important to cut just above the bud, leaving only ¼ inch. Otherwise, a dead stub will develop which is unsightly and may allow entrance of disease.

Julie Segerstrom has been a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener since 1996.