Pruning Roses
With recent precipitation and warm temperatures, shrubs and trees are starting to “push” buds at lower elevations in the Mother Lode. If you haven’t already given it some thought, now is the time to think about pruning roses.
Why Prune Roses? There are several reasons, including to improve flower quality, maintain or recreate an attractive shape, and build a foundation for a healthy rosebush. By removing unproductive or diseased branches, new growth is stimulated.
When to Prune? Typically, prune before the plant breaks dormancy and after the danger of frost is past.
For roses that bloom all summer:
- At elevations of 2000 feet or less, prune between late winter and early spring.
- At elevations above 2000 feet, prune between early and mid-spring.
- Roses that bloom only once: Prune right after flowers fade.
What Equipment Do I Need? A fine-toothed, curved saw will cut woody tissue. Pruning shears come in two forms, bypass and anvil. Bypass pruners have one cutting blade that bypasses the second blade. Anvil pruners have one sharp blade and a flat surface for support. Long-handled lopping shears are used to cut thick canes or get into hard-to-reach places. A pair of heavy-duty leather garden gloves are invaluable for protecting your hands from thorns.
Where Do I Cut? Always cut to a strong outside bud. If removing the entire cane, cut on the bud union where the cane originated. Cut at approximately a 45-degree angle ¼ inch above the bud or bud-union. If a longer section remains, die-back will occur.
Cut the cane with the sharp side of the pruners opposite the bud to assure a clean cut and that the non-cutting side will press against the part of the stem that will be discarded.
How Do I Prune? Cut out old or diseased canes down to a good bud at least an inch below any evidence of disease. The pith should be creamy white, not brown or gray. Prune down to healthy pith or to the bud union.
Cut out weak, spindly, or deformed growth. Remove canes that are not desired, such as canes that grow outward or canes that cross.
Remove all suckers (undesired shoots that come from the rootstock below the bud union). Remove the sucker base from the crown area.
Thin out the remaining healthy canes to the desired shape and cut them down to the selected height.
For climbing roses, prune ramblers and vigorous climbing roses after blooming when flowers begin to fade. Prune hybrid climbers and ever blooming large-flower climbers when they are dormant. Cut out diseased canes, dead canes, older gray canes, weak new canes and suckers. Save healthy green canes and cut laterals back to 8 to 10 buds. Or retain 3 or 4 vigorous canes and give them support.
Mary Evans was a former University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener of Tuolumne County.
References:
“Roses”, The American Horticultural Society. Illustrated Encyclopedia of Gardening.
“Roses”, James Underwood Crockett. The Time-Life Encyclopedia of Gardening.
“No Fear Rose Pruning”, Stephanie Polsley Bruner. Garden Gate Magazine.
